wled.deby LED-Emotion DE

Troubleshooting

What’s happening?

Pick the symptom, then check step by step. The most common and simplest cause comes first. Usually you’re done after two or three checks.

Before you start

  • Get a multimeter ready: most faults are power or ground problems.
  • Back up settings (Config → Security & Updates) before changing a lot.
  • Start with a short test piece if the whole installation won’t run.
Safety
Always disconnect the PSU from mains before working on cables. Measurements on 230 V only by a qualified electrician.
For business
Not solved? WLED basic support (typically 30 minutes via remote or phone) usually finds the cause right away.

Every problem on its own page

All checks at a glance

Nothing lights up at all
  1. Power at the strip? Measure between + and GND at the start of the strip with a multimeter. It must match the strip voltage (5, 12 or 24 V).
  2. Right end connected? The arrows on the strip must point away from the controller. The controller goes on DIN (data in). At the wrong end everything stays dark.
  3. Is the output switched on in WLED? In the UI: power on, brightness above 0, colour not black. Sounds trivial, but often happens after a reset.
  4. Data pin and LED count correct? Config → LED Preferences: GPIO per controller datasheet, length above 0, matching LED type (usually WS281x).
  5. Relay pin set? Controllers with relays (e.g. 4336-616, 4336-116-RF) only power the output when the relay GPIO is set. 4336-116-RF: IO21 and IO19.
  6. First pixel faulty? A faulty first chip blocks all following ones. Cut off the first section as a test and reconnect.
Flickering, glitter or random colours
  1. Common ground (GND)? Controller and strip need the same negative line. With two power supplies, connect both GNDs. The most common cause of all.
  2. Correct LED type set? A wrong type (e.g. WS2801 instead of WS281x, or RGB instead of RGBW) produces garbage.
  3. Data line too long? Keep the run from controller to first pixel as short as possible. For longer runs a signal booster or level shifter (3.3 V → 5 V) helps.
  4. Power supply overloaded? Does it only flicker on bright effects? Then the power supply is too small. Set the current limiter (ABL) to the PSU rating or use a bigger PSU.
  5. Backup data line (WS2815)? On strips with a BI line, wire it per datasheet (often to GND at the first pixel). Left open it picks up interference.
Colours are wrong (red is green …)
  1. Colour order LED Preferences → Color Order. WS2812B is usually GRB. Just try RGB, GRB, BRG until red is really red.
  2. RGBW set correctly? Set RGBW strips (e.g. SK6812 RGBW) as an RGBW type and choose an auto-white mode under White Management. Otherwise colours shift from the second LED on.
  3. White has a tint? Keep gamma correction on. Yellowish towards the end is not a colour issue but voltage drop (see the next symptom).
Reddish, yellowish or dimmer towards the end
  1. Check voltage drop Measure at the end while everything is white. Clearly less than at the start means: not enough power injection.
  2. Inject additional power Feed positive and ground additionally at the end or at intervals. Shop guide values: 5 V strips 1 to 5 m, 24 V strips up to 10 m from one end. Never inject the data line.
  3. Cable too thin? Thin supply cables lose voltage and get warm. Size the supply cable by current and length.
Controller can't be reached on the network
  1. 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi available? The controllers only use the 2.4 GHz band. With mesh or band steering, a dedicated 2.4 GHz network name helps.
  2. WLED-AP hotspot visible? If the controller can't find your Wi-Fi it reopens WLED-AP (password wled1234 unless changed). Then correct the Wi-Fi details at 4.3.2.1.
  3. IP address instead of .local .local names don't work on every device. The IP is in the router's device list; the WLED app searches automatically.
  4. Signal too weak? Metal enclosures, aluminium profiles and walls attenuate heavily. Move the controller closer to the router or choose a LAN controller.
Too dim even at full brightness
  1. Current limit too low? WLED limits to 850 mA out of the box. Under LED Preferences set the maximum current to the power supply's rating.
  2. Current per LED right? The LED voltage/type choice (e.g. “5V default 55 mA”) drives the estimate. Pick the matching value for 12/24 V strips.
  3. Segment or preset brightness? Segments have their own brightness. Check whether a segment or preset is dimmed.
Glows or flashes when switched off
  1. Enable Off Refresh LED Preferences → “Off Refresh”: WLED keeps sending “black” even when off. That usually cures glowing and flashing at once.
  2. Use the relay Controllers with relays disconnect the strip from power when off. That also saves standby power.
  3. Check ground and data line Interference on the data line is read as commands. Connect GND, keep the data line short.
Controller keeps rebooting
  1. Voltage dips? On bright effects an undersized PSU sags and the ESP32 reboots. Set the current limiter or use a bigger PSU.
  2. Too many LEDs or effects? Check LED Memory Usage in LED Preferences. Many segments, 2D effects and real-time at once strain memory.
  3. After an update? WLED 16 detects boot loops and recovers by itself. Otherwise re-flash via USB with install.wled.me and restore your backup.
Doesn't react to music
  1. Controller with microphone? Music effects need a microphone on the controller (e.g. 4336-310, 4336-USB, 4336-616) and the AudioReactive feature.
  2. Microphone configured? Under Usermods → AudioReactive set microphone type and pins per datasheet (e.g. 4336-116-RF: PDM, SD IO32, WS IO15).
  3. Sensitivity Lower squelch (noise threshold) and raise gain until the level meter reacts. Pick an effect marked with a note symbol (♪).
Remote doesn't respond
  1. Batteries and distance Check the 2 × AAA batteries. The 4336-001 range is up to 50 m according to the manufacturer; walls and metal shorten it.
  2. ESP-NOW enabled in WLED? Config → WiFi Setup: enable ESP-NOW and set “Disable WiFi sleep”, otherwise button presses don’t arrive. Save; the controller restarts.
  3. Remote registered? Press a button: the MAC address appears under “Last device seen”. Add it to the list with +. WLED ignores unlisted remotes; up to 10 are possible.
  4. Controller running WLED? The 4336-001 is meant for the GLEDOPTO WLED controllers. For the 4321-WL4 (MiBoxer) no manufacturer confirms the combination; the MiBoxer 2.4G remote is intended there.
  5. Same Wi-Fi channel? ESP-NOW uses the controller's Wi-Fi channel. If the router changes channel automatically the link can drop. Set a fixed channel in the router.
Lights up only up to a certain point
  1. LED count in WLED too low? Config → LED Preferences: length must be the pixel count of the whole strip, not metres. On strips with several LEDs per IC each IC counts as one pixel.
  2. Faulty chip at that point? After a faulty IC all following ones stay dark or show random colours. Check the last lit and first dark section; cut it out and bridge it if needed.
  3. Solder joint or connector? At joints the data line is often loose. Press briefly on the spot: if things flicker behind it, it’s the connection.
  4. Voltage after the point? Measure: if the voltage drops a lot beyond it, a feed is missing. The set planner shows where to inject.
Second output or zone stays dark
  1. Second output added? Config → LED Preferences: each output needs its own entry with its own GPIO, start LED and length. Add another output with +.
  2. Right GPIO? The pins are in the controller’s datasheet, e.g. 4321-WL4: data GPIO 4, 16, 18, 19. A swapped pin leaves the zone dark.
  3. Start LED overlapping? Output 2 starts where output 1 ends (start = length of output 1). Overlaps lead to duplicated or missing pixels.
  4. Segment switched on? In the segments area of the UI, check that a segment exists for the second zone and is switched on.
Effects stutter or run slowly
  1. Too many pixels on one output? WS281x need about 30 µs per pixel. With 1000 pixels on one output only about 33 frames per second are possible. Spread across several outputs.
  2. Frame rate limited? Config → LED Preferences: check the target refresh rate. The actual frame rate is shown under Info in the UI.
  3. Weak Wi-Fi? With sync or streaming (E1.31, DDP) weak signal causes stutter. Info shows signal strength; LAN controllers (4336-616, 4336-620, 4336-611) are more stable.
  4. Many segments and overlays? Every segment with its own effect costs computing time. Reduce to one segment as a test.
Strip, PSU or controller gets hot
  1. Strip on an aluminium profile? Dense strips give off a lot of heat. Without an aluminium profile LEDs age faster and discolour. Always use a profile on wood or plastic.
  2. PSU large enough? Power at full white plus 20 % headroom. A PSU at its limit gets hot and shuts down. Plan ventilation for built-in PSUs.
  3. Too much current through the controller? Terminals and tracks have limits (e.g. 4336-616: 10 A per output). With more current power the strip directly from the PSU, controller only data + GND.
  4. Terminals tight, cross-section right? Loose screw terminals and thin cables get warm. Tighten them and have the cross-section chosen by current and length (qualified electrician).
White looks bluish, pink or uneven
  1. RGB white instead of true white? RGB strips mix white from red, green and blue, which often looks cool. For good white light pick a white pixel strip (e.g. warm white 2500 K, CRI > 90) or RGBW.
  2. Colour order wrong? With the wrong order (e.g. RGB instead of GRB) no colour is right. Config → LED Preferences: test colour orders until red is red.
  3. White channel on RGBW? On RGBW strips set the matching LED type and the white mode (auto white), otherwise the white channel stays off.
  4. Different towards the end? If it turns reddish or yellowish towards the end, voltage is missing. See symptom “reddish towards the end”.
Settings or presets are gone
  1. Backed up? Config → Security & Updates: back up configuration and presets regularly as files. Everything can be restored from them in seconds.
  2. After an update or reinstall? Reflashing via USB with erase resets everything. Normal updates via the UI usually keep settings.
  3. Preset saved, not just set? Colour and effect changes only persist after “Save” in a preset. Set a boot preset for start-up (Config → LED Preferences).
Update failed or controller won’t start
  1. Right firmware file? The file must match the chip (ESP32, ESP32-C3, ESP32-S3 …). LAN controllers have Ethernet variants. If in doubt, ask the dealer.
  2. WLED-AP visible? If WLED starts but can’t find the Wi-Fi, it opens the WLED-AP hotspot (password wled1234). Set up again at 4.3.2.1.
  3. Reflash via USB With the web installer install.wled.me WLED can be reinstalled via USB cable in Chrome or Edge. Back up the configuration first if still possible.
Home Assistant can’t find WLED
  1. Same network? Auto-discovery uses mDNS and doesn’t work across VLAN or guest network boundaries. Then add the integration manually with the IP address.
  2. WLED version current? The Home Assistant integration needs WLED 0.14 or newer. The version is shown under Info.
  3. Fixed IP address? If the IP changes, Home Assistant loses the connection. Assign a fixed address for the controller in the router.
Schedule switches at the wrong time
  1. Time zone and NTP? Config → Time & Macros: enable NTP and pick the time zone (for Germany CET/CEST). Without internet WLED doesn’t know the time.
  2. Sunrise and sunset? For schedules based on the sun, enter latitude and longitude, otherwise the times are wrong.
  3. Right preset number? Schedules call presets by number. After reordering presets, check the assignment.
Several controllers aren’t in sync
  1. Sync enabled? Config → Sync Interfaces: enable sending on the leading controller and receiving on the others. All on the same network, same UDP port (default 21324).
  2. Same version and effects? Effects only match if all controllers run the same WLED version and segments are similar in length.
  3. Wi-Fi stable? Sync packets get lost on weak Wi-Fi. For shows with many controllers prefer LAN.