Questions and answers about WLED

WLED is free software for small controller chips. It lets you control LED strips from your phone or browser: colours, brightness and more than 100 effects. No cloud, no account.

WLED is open-source firmware for ESP32 microcontrollers (ESP8266 with limits). It drives addressable pixel LEDs such as WS2812B, SK6812 or WS2815, and via PWM also classic single-colour, white, RGB and RGBW strips. Control via web UI or app, with segments, presets and playlists.

WLED is a licence-free, open-source control platform that runs entirely on your local network. Open interfaces (JSON API, MQTT, E1.31/Art-Net/DDP) and the official Home Assistant integration avoid vendor lock-in. Typical uses: retail fit-out, trade fairs, hospitality, furniture and accent lighting.

C++ firmware for ESP32 built on Arduino core/ESP-IDF. JSON and HTTP API, WebSocket push, UDP sync, ESP-NOW, E1.31, Art-Net, DDP, TPM2.net, MQTT with Home Assistant discovery, usermod framework. Since 2026 the project lives at github.com/wled/WLED; the current major version is 16.

The software is free, including all updates. You only pay for the hardware: controller, LEDs and power supply.

Free and open source on GitHub. Our controllers ship with WLED pre-installed, and you can update or re-flash them yourself at any time.

WLED is licensed under the EUPL v1.2. Commercial use is allowed. Anyone distributing modified firmware must follow the licence terms (including making source code available). The licence excludes liability of the developers. A binding assessment for your case belongs with your legal adviser.

EUPL-1.2 (copyleft, with a compatibility list for other copyleft licences). Forks such as WLED-MM and vendor builds are EUPL as well. Source: repository README.

Three things: a WLED controller, an LED strip and a power supply with the same voltage. Ideally an aluminium profile and some cable too. You already have a phone or laptop for setup.

Plus: suitable cables (cross-section by current), a fuse per output, maybe injection cables, screwdriver, soldering iron for joints. The set planner builds the list.

For projects additionally: mounting/injection plan, network plan, documentation, spare controller.

Optional: USB cable for flashing, level shifter for long data lines, multimeter for troubleshooting.

No coding: everything works through an interface with buttons and sliders. Soldering is only needed if you join strips yourself; with pre-made cables from the shop you can usually avoid it.

Controllers have screw terminals. Soldering is done at strip ends and corners. If unsure, order strips with a pre-fitted connection cable.

For your team: operation via remote or button, configuration done once by a specialist or our support.

You can code, but you don't have to: JSON API, MQTT, custom effects via usermods.

No. WLED runs on your home network. Internet is only needed for the time of day (schedules) and for updates.

Without internet, control, effects and presets work. Schedules need the time via NTP; without internet the clock isn't right after a reboot.

No cloud means no dependency on a provider and no data with third parties.

The NTP server is configurable, so a local time server on the LAN works too.

It depends. Hue is a finished system that's easy to set up. WLED is more flexible, cheaper and can do far more effects, but needs a little more setup.

WLED: every LED individually, over 100 effects, your own strips in any length, open interfaces. Hue: certified complete products, Zigbee, a big app ecosystem. Both can be combined via Home Assistant.

For custom effect and accent lighting WLED is often more economical; for standard luminaires a finished system.

WLED can sync with Hue lamps (Hue sync in the sync settings).

Digital strips can colour each LED or section individually, which makes chasers and animations possible. Analogue strips always light up in one colour along their whole length. WLED controllers exist for both, but they are different models.

Digital/addressable: usually three wires (V+, data, GND); each chip reads its colour from the data stream and passes the rest on. Analogue/PWM: one wire per colour channel, dimmed by pulse-width modulation. Pixel controllers: 4336-015, 4336-310, 4336-USB, 4336-616, 4336-116-RF, 4321-WL4. PWM controllers: 4336-211, 4336-611. Both in one: 4336-620.

Use digital strips for effect and accent lighting (chasers, animation, logos). For general and task lighting with high colour rendering, analogue white strips on PWM are usually the better choice. WLED can bring both together in one control interface.

WS281x: single-wire NRZ at 800 kHz, timing-critical. SPI types (APA102, WS2801, SK9822) use a separate clock. PWM: the ESP32's LEDC peripheral with one MOSFET stage per channel; in WLED configured as an analogue bus with 1 to 5 channels.

Two questions usually decide it: do you want chasing effects (digital) or single-colour light (analogue)? And should the light react to music? Our controller finder then shows you the right model.

Criteria: LED type (digital/PWM), operating voltage, number of outputs, current per channel, need for LAN, relays (strip fully off when switched off), microphone, radio remote. The comparison table lists all values side by side.

For continuous commercial operation we recommend wired LAN (4336-616, 4336-611, 4336-620) plus a relay and fuse per output (4336-616, 4336-116-RF). For series installations, build one configuration, back it up and copy it to further devices.

The classic ESP32 (WROOM) offers the best compatibility. Always take the pinout from the datasheet, e.g. 4336-116-RF: data IO2/IO16, relays IO21/IO19, PDM microphone SD IO32/WS IO15, function button IO17.

All common pixel strips (e.g. WS2812B, SK6812, WS2815), and with a PWM controller also normal single-colour, white, RGB and RGBW strips.

Digital, among others: WS2812B, WS2813, WS2815, WS2811, SK6812 (incl. RGBW), TM1814, plus clocked APA102, SK9822, WS2801. Set the type and colour order (e.g. GRB) under LED Preferences.

On 24 V pixel strips with WS2811, one chip drives several LEDs together (e.g. 10 ICs per metre). This lowers resolution but allows longer runs with less voltage drop.

Full list: kno.wled.ge → Compatible LEDs. RGBW: pick an auto-white mode. Data level: the ESP32 outputs 3.3 V; many 5 V chips just about accept that, on long lines a level shifter or signal booster helps.

Several hundred per output. The 4336-116-RF, for example, is recommended for up to 800 pixels per channel, and the 4321-WL4 is rated by the manufacturer for up to 1024 per channel.

The more pixels on one output, the lower the possible frame rate. For large installations, spread the LEDs across several outputs or several controllers and synchronise them.

Plan large surfaces modularly: several controllers, each with its own power feed, driven together via sync or DDP. That also simplifies replacement if something fails.

WS281x sends 24 bits at 800 kHz, i.e. 30 µs per pixel. 800 pixels therefore take about 24 ms per frame, so at most about 40 fps on one output. Parallel outputs avoid this limit.

All controllers in our range use the more powerful ESP32, so you don't need to worry about this.

WLED is still available for the ESP8266, but due to its small memory some features are missing and the practical LED count is lower. For new projects: ESP32.

Use only ESP32 hardware for new projects: more headroom, LAN options and long-term firmware support.

When updating, pick the binary matching your chip variant (ESP32, ESP32-S2/S3/C3, Ethernet builds). Do not overwrite vendor builds with custom pinouts with generic images without checking the pins afterwards.

For small projects yes, e.g. with the 4336-USB mini controller on a USB charger or power bank. For more than about one metre, USB is usually not enough.

4336-USB: 5 V, max. 3 A. A 60 LED/m strip needs 3.3 A per metre at full white, so be sure to set the current limiter to around 2500 mA.

Handy for display cases: no separate power supply, no 230 V work.

USB chargers often deliver less than rated; choose the ABL conservatively.

So you can connect several strips separately, e.g. left and right in the kitchen. And large installations run more smoothly.

Each output gets a pin, length and start address. “Make a segment for each output” creates one segment per output automatically.

Several outputs halve or quarter cable lengths and make zones independent.

Parallel outputs transmit simultaneously; the frame rate then depends on the longest chain, not the sum.

Pixel strips use some power even when “off” because every chip stays awake. A relay disconnects the strip completely when switched off.

Saves standby power and prevents glowing. Set the relay GPIO under LED Preferences in WLED (e.g. 4336-116-RF: IO21/IO19).

Useful for permanent installations with many metres: lower idle consumption, plus a fuse per output.

Relay logic (active HIGH/LOW) adjustable via “Invert”.

At home Wi-Fi is almost always enough. If the controller is far from the router or behind metal, a network cable is more reliable.

LAN controllers in the range: 4336-616 (pixel), 4336-611 (PWM), 4336-620 (pixel + PWM). After setup, enable Ethernet in the network menu.

For business, trade fairs and control cabinets we recommend LAN: no radio interference, fixed addresses, easy monitoring.

Ethernet relieves the 2.4 GHz band and lowers latency for real-time protocols (DDP, E1.31).

For very long white or coloured lines of light. Higher voltage means less current and less loss along the way.

The 4336-611 PWM controller accepts 5 to 48 V. Strip and power supply must share the same voltage.

For halls and facades with long lines: fewer feed points and thinner cables.

For the same power the current halves compared to 24 V, line losses drop to a quarter.

Long runs and wall light: 24 V strips. Fine effects on short runs (TV, shelf): 5 V strips with 60 LEDs per metre. Quality white light that can move: the warm white 24 V strip with 336 LEDs/m. The set planner works it all out for you.

Three criteria: voltage (5 V short and fine, 24 V long), resolution (pixels/m) and light quality (RGB or white with high CRI). Plus the maximum feed length from the datasheet: 5 V strips in the range 1 to 5 m, 24 V strips up to 10 m.

Proven for client projects: 24 V WS2811 strips for surfaces and coves (up to 10 m from one end), warm white pixel strips CRI > 90 for hospitality and stairs, 144 pixels/m for logos. Standard is IP20; NanoCoating and IP66 selectable in the shop depending on the strip, IP67/IP69K on request.

What matters is V, pixels/m (addresses), W/m and feed length. WS281x data rate: 30 µs per address, so the pixel count per output limits the frame rate, not the LED count.

LEDs/m says how many light points sit on a metre. Pixels/m says how many of them you can control individually. On some 24 V strips several LEDs always light up together.

Example from the range: 336 LEDs/m but 48 pixels/m, so 7 LEDs per pixel. Or 60 LEDs/m with 10 pixels/m: one WS2811 chip per 10 cm drives 6 LEDs. In WLED you enter the pixel count as length, not the LEDs.

Many LEDs, few pixels: a homogeneous line of light with lower effect resolution. Often the better choice for architecture and coves.

Addresses = pixels. WS2811 uses an external IC per segment; on WS2812B the IC is integrated in every LED (1 LED = 1 address).

Yes, but only at the marked cut points (usually copper pads with a scissors symbol). The cut-off piece remains usable as its own section.

5 V pixel strips with 60 LEDs/m can be cut after every LED (17 mm). 24 V WS2811 strips only per segment (10 cm). When joining, keep DIN → DO.

Our strips can be configured to length in the shop and ordered with factory-fitted cables. That saves soldering on site.

Cutting between two addresses is harmless; cutting in the middle of a WS2811 segment leaves that piece dead.

With short pieces of cable, soldered or with suitable connectors. Important: positive to positive, data to data, ground to ground, and keep the arrow direction.

Soldering is most reliable. Clip connectors are convenient but a frequent fault source on pixel strips (loose contact = flicker). For gaps of more than a few metres the data line gets long: plan a signal booster.

Corner and profile systems give clean corners. The joint stays accessible for maintenance.

The data line between segments is a new line section; any break in the DO→DIN path cuts off all following pixels.

Usually yes. It dissipates heat, protects the strip, and with a milky diffuser you no longer see individual light points.

For 5 V pixel strips at 16.5 W/m and more, the shop explicitly recommends a heat-sink profile. The deeper the profile and the more opal the cover, the more even the line of light.

Profiles give a clean look and a longer service life. There are matching recessed profiles for furniture and drywall.

LED lifetime depends heavily on junction temperature; aluminium lowers it by conducting heat to the mounting surface.

Yes. The warm white 24 V strip with 336 LEDs/m gives cosy 2500 K light with very good colour rendering and can still do chasing effects.

Shop data: 2500 K, CRI > 90, 890 lm/m, 16.8 W/m, 48 pixels/m, WS2811, up to 10 m from one end. Ideal for stairs, corridors and kitchens where the light shouldn't be colourful.

For hotels, restaurants and premium homes: subtle motion (e.g. switch-on wipe) instead of colour effects.

Set it up as WS281x in WLED, length = pixel count (48/m), colour white; WLED treats it like a single-colour pixel strip.

Yes, with a PWM controller (e.g. 4336-211 or 4336-611). You get colour, brightness, scenes and smart home, but no chasing effects, because the strip can only light up as a whole.

Single colour, tunable white (CCT), RGB, RGBW and RGB+CCT work. Mind the voltage: 4336-211 12–24 V, 4336-611 5–48 V.

Existing installations can be modernised this way without replacing strips, and integrated into building systems.

Set it up in WLED as an analogue (PWM) bus with the matching channel count and pins per datasheet.

A lot at full white brightness: a 5 V strip with 60 LEDs/m draws up to 3.3 A per metre. Colourful effects usually need much less.

Datasheet values from the range: 60 LEDs/m 5 V = 16.5 W/m (3.3 A/m), 144 LEDs/m 5 V = 39 W/m (7.9 A/m), 24 V WS2811 = 13 W/m. Size the PSU for full white or set the current limiter.

For calculations use the datasheet value plus 20 % headroom. Consumption in use is lower depending on the effect.

WS2812B: around 55–60 mA per LED at full white (20 mA per channel plus IC). WLED estimates the current value and shows it as “Current estimated usage” and in /json/info.

Rule of thumb: 5 V for short runs and fine effects, 12 or 24 V for longer runs. Important: strip, controller and power supply must all match the same voltage.

For the same power, a higher voltage means less current and therefore less voltage drop. That is why 5 V strips need an extra power feed sooner. Check the controller's voltage range: 4336-211 12–24 V, 4336-116-RF 5/12/24 V, 4321-WL4 5–24 V, 4336-616 5–24 V.

Prefer 24 V for installations with long cable runs. Have cable cross-sections and fusing planned by a qualified electrician.

I = P/U: at 24 V only about one fifth of the 5 V current flows. Line losses (I²·R) drop to roughly one twenty-fifth.

Take your strip's watts per metre, multiply by the length and add about 20 % headroom. The power calculator does it for you.

P = W/m × length, I = P/U, PSU ≥ 1.2 × P. Then set WLED's current limiter (ABL) to the rated current of the power supply.

For continuous operation, use branded power supplies with a suitable IP rating and plan for heat dissipation. With several supplies, connect the grounds (GND) but never parallel the positive outputs.

WLED's current limiter only calculates: current per LED × colour share × brightness. It measures nothing and is no substitute for a fuse. The default of 850 mA is too low for most power supplies.

Voltage is lost along long strips. The fix: feed power in at additional points, for example at the end of the strip as well.

The cause is voltage drop along the thin copper traces. Inject power at both ends or at intervals depending on voltage and LED density. The strip's datasheet states the maximum feed length.

Power injection points belong in the electrical design. Use the datasheet value for maximum feed length and plan supply lines in a star layout.

Blue and green LEDs have a higher forward voltage than red ones and drop out first when voltage sags, hence the red tint. Run injection lines with a common ground; the data line is not injected.

Yes. Controller, strip and power supply need a common negative line. Without it, the LEDs flicker or stay dark.

The data signal is referenced to GND. If controller and LEDs are powered by separate supplies, you must connect the two grounds.

In installations with several power supplies, provide a continuous ground connection and document it.

Without a common reference the first pixel sees undefined levels. Keep the data line short; a series resistor (typically 220–470 Ω) close to the controller damps reflections.

Small arrows are printed on the strip. The controller goes on the end the arrows point away from (DIN, data in).

Data flows from DIN to DO. Connected at the wrong end, everything stays dark; normally nothing is damaged. Wire strips with a backup data line (WS2813, WS2815, BI) according to their datasheet.

Record data direction and feed points in the installation plan so replacement and maintenance go quickly.

On WS2815 the backup line (BI) of the first pixel is often tied to GND; the datasheet of the specific strip is authoritative.

The more current and the longer the cable, the thicker it must be. Rule of thumb: go one size up. If in doubt, ask a qualified electrician.

Voltage drop for copper: ΔU = 2 × length × current × 0.0178 ÷ cross-section. Example 24 V, 5 A, 5 m, 1.5 mm²: ΔU ≈ 0.59 V (2.5 %). At 5 V the same drop would already be 12 %.

Plan at most 3 to 5 % voltage drop on the supply cable and have cross-section and fusing specified by a qualified electrician.

ρ(Cu) ≈ 0.0178 Ω·mm²/m; factor 2 for outgoing and return conductor. Also observe the cable's current rating for the installation method.

Every output to a strip should be fused. The fuse must be above the normal current but below what the cable can carry.

Rule: operating current < fuse rating ≤ cable capacity. Some controllers already have fuses built in (4336-616, 4336-116-RF per output, 4336-611 with 20 A).

Fusing belongs in the electrical design; commercial installations are inspected e.g. under DGUV regulation 3 in Germany.

WLED's current limiter is not a protective device: in a short circuit the PSU delivers whatever it can.

Yes, it's common for long installations. Each PSU feeds its own section, and all negative lines are connected.

Don't connect the positive outputs of the supplies together; cut the strip's positive at the hand-over point. GND stays continuous.

In the design give each PSU a clearly separated section with its own fuse.

Otherwise slightly different output voltages cause compensating currents between the supplies.

With ready-made controllers usually not, they have what's needed on board. For DIY builds it's good protection.

Proven for DIY: an electrolytic capacitor (e.g. 1000 µF) across + and − at the start of the strip against switch-on spikes, and a resistor (220–470 Ω) in the data line close to the ESP.

With complete controllers follow the datasheet; no extra components without approval.

The series resistor damps reflections and overshoot on the data line; the capacitor buffers the inrush current.

Connect power, choose the Wi-Fi network WLED-AP on your phone (password wled1234). A page opens; otherwise type 4.3.2.1 in the browser. Enter your home Wi-Fi under “WiFi Setup”, save, done. The WLED app will then find the controller.

In WiFi Setup also set an mDNS name (e.g. wled-kitchen, reachable at http://wled-kitchen.local) and change the AP password, because wled1234 is the same on every device. Then set LED count, data pin, type, colour order and current limit under LED Preferences.

On site: DHCP reservation or fixed IP, set a settings PIN and update protection, back up configuration and presets. With the step-by-step guide this takes a few minutes.

Captive portal in AP mode; wled.me and 4.3.2.1 only work while you are connected to WLED-AP. State via /json/state, info via /json/info, configuration in cfg.json. Multi-WiFi: up to 3 networks with automatic AP fallback.

The controllers only use 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi. Check that your router offers 2.4 GHz and type the network name and password exactly (case-sensitive).

ESP32 (classic) and ESP8266 only support 2.4 GHz. With mesh systems or band steering, a dedicated 2.4 GHz network name often helps. Metal enclosures or long distance weaken the signal.

In corporate networks, provide a separate IoT network or VLAN with 2.4 GHz and WPA2-PSK. For 802.1X networks or maximum stability, a LAN controller such as the 4336-616 is the most reliable solution.

802.11 b/g/n, 2.4 GHz. By default WLED reopens its access point after a failed connection attempt. Signal strength is in /json/info under wifi.rssi.

Yes, the free “WLED” app for Android and iOS. It finds your controllers automatically. You can also simply use your browser.

The app shows the controller's web interface and discovers devices on the network. Everything the app does also works in the browser.

For customers or staff: save scenes as presets and control them via remote or wall button, so nobody needs a phone.

The app discovers devices via mDNS and uses the same local API as the browser. No cloud service involved.

Yes: with the 4336-001 radio remote (works directly, without Wi-Fi, up to 50 m) or with a push button on the controller.

The 4336-001 uses ESP-NOW: buttons for on/off, four scenes (S1–S4), night mode and brightness. Pairing is done in the WLED settings; see the remote's manual. Connect push buttons to free inputs (e.g. 4336-116-RF: IO5, IO18, IO33, 3.3 V level only).

Ideal for staff: fixed scenes on the buttons, no app access needed, no risk of changing the configuration by accident.

ESP-NOW is a connectionless radio protocol from Espressif. Remote and controller must be on the same Wi-Fi channel. The 4336-116-RF additionally understands GL-RC-009S and GL-RC-208 2.4 GHz remotes.

Back up your settings first. Then install the new version in WLED under Config → Security & Updates, or conveniently from Home Assistant.

Download the matching .bin for your chip from the GitHub releases page and upload it via OTA. Alternatively via USB with the web installer install.wled.me. When moving from 0.15 to 16, read the notes on changes.

Test updates on one device first and keep backups. For devices with a vendor build, check with your supplier first.

Version 16 adds OTA bootloader updates and boot-loop detection with auto-recovery. Known breaking changes 0.15 → 16 are collected in the issue tracker (#5542).

Under “Security & Updates” in the settings there are buttons to back up. Save both files on your computer.

The backup covers configuration (cfg.json) and presets (presets.json). Restore in the same place.

Store the files centrally per project. If a device fails, a replacement is set up identically within minutes.

The files live in the controller's file system and are also accessible via the file editor or over HTTP.

The ESP32 sends its commands at 3.3 V, many LEDs expect 5 V. With short cables it usually works anyway. With long cables a level shifter helps.

Typical sign: flicker that disappears with a shorter data line. Fix: move the controller closer to the strip, use a level shifter or signal booster.

Plan it from the start for installations with distance between controller and strip.

WS2812B specifies V_IH ≥ 0.7 × VDD, i.e. 3.5 V at 5 V supply. 3.3 V is below that and only works within tolerance.

Give each controller a unique name, e.g. “wled-kitchen” and “wled-stairs”. The WLED app then lists them all by name.

Set device name and mDNS name in WiFi Setup; server description under User Interface. Assign fixed addresses in the router.

Keep a list with name, location, IP, firmware version and backup date per device.

Discovery via mDNS; alternatively query /json/info across all IPs in the subnet.

With the function button on the controller (how long to hold is in the manual) or by reinstalling with the web installer. Back up your settings first if you want to keep them.

Web installer install.wled.me via USB: choose “erase device” when installing, then everything is fresh. Restore your backup afterwards.

With vendor builds that use a custom pinout, check the pins per datasheet after resetting.

Erasing also removes the file system (cfg.json, presets.json).

Yes. The controller can open its own Wi-Fi network that you join with your phone. The 4336-001 remote doesn't need a router anyway.

In WiFi Setup set the AP behaviour to “Always” and choose your own password. The interface is then always available at 4.3.2.1.

Suitable for mobile displays or vehicles without infrastructure; operation via remote.

Without a network there's no NTP time, so schedules don't work. ESP-NOW sync between controllers works without a router.

You split a strip into sections, e.g. kitchen left and right, and give each its own colour or effect.

A segment has a start and end LED, its own effect, palette, colours and brightness. In Home Assistant each segment becomes its own light.

One controller can serve several zones, such as counter, shelf and logo. That saves hardware and cabling.

Since version 16 WLED supports true segment layering with blend modes; segments may overlap.

A preset is a saved favourite setting. A playlist plays several presets one after another, e.g. a different one every five minutes.

Presets store a state or an API command and can be recalled via remote, button, schedule or Home Assistant. Playlists have a duration and transition time per entry.

Ideal for shop windows and hospitality: schedules (time via NTP, time zone and DST) start day and evening scenes automatically.

Stored in presets.json; a preset can contain any JSON API command. Version 16 adds new transition styles (shift, push, blending).

More than 100 built-in effects and many colour palettes, freely combinable.

Each effect can be tuned with palette, speed and intensity. Version 16 adds a particle system, new transitions and GIF playback on LED matrices.

For your corporate design, create your own palettes in the palette editor and lock the scenes in as presets.

Version 16: more than 100 custom palettes, new palette editor, font editor for scrolling text, PixelForge for pixel graphics, user_fx usermod for your own effects.

Yes. With a controller that has a microphone, such as the 4336-310, the LEDs move to the beat.

This is done by the AudioReactive extension. Adjust sensitivity (squelch) and gain to the room. Digital microphones give cleaner signals than analogue ones.

For events, place the microphone close to the sound source, or use one controller as audio source and let others follow over the network.

FFT analysis on the ESP32; prefer I2S/PDM microphones. AudioReactive is maintained by the MoonModules team. The Home Assistant integration cannot control usermods such as AudioReactive.

Yes. WLED can drive LED panels and show text, effects and, from version 16, animated GIFs.

In the 2D settings enter width, height and wiring (e.g. zigzag). Effects then run in two dimensions.

Suitable for price and information signs, logos or promotions. For larger panels, plan power injection and heat dissipation especially carefully.

Pixel mapping via ledmap.json; HUB75 panels are supported in version 16 via a dedicated firmware build; custom fonts for scrolling text.

Pick the colour on the colour wheel and save it as a preset. For gradients there's a palette editor from WLED 16.

A segment has three colour slots (primary, secondary, tertiary). Many effects use a palette instead of these slots. Create your own palettes in the palette editor and select them in the effect.

Store brand colours as a palette and save scenes as presets; the look stays the same at every location.

Palettes are gradients with stops; custom palettes are stored as JSON in the file system.

Turn on “Crossfade” in the LED settings and choose a transition time, e.g. 0.7 seconds. Every change then fades smoothly.

Transitions: crossfade on, set transition time. From WLED 16 there are extra transition styles (e.g. shift, push). Effects at low speed look calmer.

Smooth transitions and slow effects look more premium and are more pleasant for customers and staff.

The transition time can be set per preset or via the API (transition, in 100 ms steps).

Yes, with the night light timer (moon symbol). The light then dims down slowly and turns off.

LED Preferences → Timed Light: set duration, target brightness and mode (e.g. fade). Trigger via UI, button, remote or Home Assistant.

Useful for corridors and washrooms combined with a motion sensor.

Via API: {"nl":{"on":true,"dur":30,"mode":1,"tbri":0}}.

Yes. Home Assistant usually finds WLED by itself. You can then use the lights in your automations.

Official integration with auto-discovery. Each segment becomes its own light entity, plus a main light. Presets and playlists are selectable, and firmware updates run directly from Home Assistant. Minimum version: WLED 0.14.

Everything runs locally without a cloud. That is robust and privacy-friendly, including for commercial buildings controlled by Home Assistant.

Real-time updates via WebSocket, update entity with release check, sensor “estimated current (mA)”. Usermods cannot be controlled via the integration; use MQTT or the JSON API instead.

With Alexa, yes: WLED appears as a lamp (on/off, brightness, colour). Google works via Home Assistant.

Enable the Alexa function in WLED's sync settings and let the Alexa app search for devices. Echo and controller must be on the same network.

In commercial settings, buttons, remotes or schedules are usually more practical than voice commands.

Alexa support via local emulation (Espalexa); no cloud skill required.

WLED can be integrated into almost any system. If you use a particular home automation system, ask us or your installer.

JSON and HTTP API, MQTT, UDP. Loxone understands WLED directly (Loxone values); KNX works via a gateway or Home Assistant.

Open, documented interfaces mean no vendor lock-in and easy integration into existing building services.

Example: POST /json/state with {"on":true,"bri":128,"seg":[{"fx":9}]}. MQTT: commands to <topic>/api, Home Assistant discovery available. More in the pro overview.

Yes. Several WLED devices coordinate over the network and show the same effect at the same time.

Enable send and receive under Sync Interfaces and define groups. ESP-NOW sync even works without a router.

For large surfaces or shows, a lighting desk or software such as xLights drives all controllers via DDP or E1.31. Wired LAN increases reliability here.

UDP notifier on port 21324, sync groups as bit mask; real-time protocols E1.31, Art-Net, DDP, TPM2.net.

Yes. WLED can receive signals from lighting desks and lighting software, which makes it suitable for stages and events.

Under Sync Interfaces → Realtime set protocol, universe and start address. While data arrives, real-time mode overrides the internal effects.

Integrates into existing event technology without special hardware per strip. For show use we strongly recommend LAN controllers and separate networks.

Input: E1.31 (sACN), Art-Net, DDP, TPM2.net; from version 16 also DMX input via serial interface.

Yes, with additional software that captures the picture (e.g. Hyperion or HyperHDR on a small computer). WLED then shows the matching colours.

Hyperion/HyperHDR capture the image via a grabber and send the colours to WLED over DDP or UDP. Hyperion discovers WLED devices automatically.

Equally suitable for showrooms and video walls.

Real-time data overrides internal effects while it arrives; the timeout is set in Sync Interfaces.

Yes. In the settings under “Time & Macros” you define when which preset starts, including at sunrise and sunset.

Enter time zone and location (for sunrise/sunset), then create timers with time, weekdays and preset. The time comes via NTP from the internet.

For shop windows and outdoor lighting: document switching times and align them with opening hours.

Several timers plus sunrise/sunset triggers; more complex logic via Home Assistant.

Yes, but please not by exposing the controller directly to the internet. Securely it works via a VPN connection home or via Home Assistant.

Many routers offer VPN. Once connected, the controller is reachable as if you were home. Don't set up port forwarding.

Remote access only via VPN or secured building management systems.

The web UI uses HTTP without TLS; a reverse proxy with authentication and TLS is the minimum, VPN the better option.

Usually it's a missing common ground, an undersized power supply or the wrong LED type setting.

Checklist: 1. GND connected? 2. LED type and colour order (GRB/RGB) correct? 3. Data line short? 4. First pixel faulty (try cutting it off)? 5. Power supply large enough, current limit right?

If errors occur across a series, document type, length, power supply and firmware version and use our support.

Typical causes: 3.3 V data level on 5 V chips, reflections on long data lines (series resistor, level shifter), unconnected BI line on WS2815, power supply ripple.

Check in turn: power on? Arrows on the strip point away from the controller? Data line on the right terminal? Brightness and on-switch in WLED on?

Under LED Preferences the data pin must match the output (see datasheet) and the LED count must be above zero. On controllers with relays, the relay pin must also be set, otherwise the output stays unpowered (4336-116-RF: relays IO21 and IO19).

For on-site acceptance: measure the supply first, then data direction, then configuration. That saves the most time.

The pin info page (new in 16) shows all assigned GPIOs. /json/info returns leds.count and the current estimate.

Look in your router's device list or let the WLED app search. If it can no longer find your Wi-Fi, it reopens the WLED-AP hotspot after a short time.

.local names don't work on every device (e.g. some Android versions); use the IP address instead. Reset and forcing the hotspot work via the function button; the hold time is in the controller's manual.

Give every controller a fixed DHCP reservation and document name and address in the project.

AP behaviour is configurable (e.g. “no connection”). mDNS hostname in WiFi Setup; alternatively discover via UDP or the router's ARP table.

The built-in current limiter is probably holding them back. Set it to your power supply's value in the LED settings.

WLED limits to 850 mA out of the box. Under LED Preferences set the maximum current to the rated current of the power supply and choose a current per LED that suits the strip.

The limiter is a convenience feature, not a protective device. Protection always comes from the power supply and fuses.

ABL scales global brightness when the calculated current sum (mA/LED × channel share) exceeds the limit. The estimate is in /json/info under leds.pwr.

At that point either an LED is broken or a connection is interrupted. Or the LED count in WLED is set too low.

1. Check the LED count in LED Preferences. 2. Check the solder joint/connector at the transition. 3. The last lit or first dark LED is often faulty: cut there and reconnect. More in the troubleshooting guide.

Faulty sections can be replaced individually. That's why strip sections should be documented in the plan.

DO of the last working pixel or DIN of the next one is broken; data is not passed on.

The controllers (IP20) belong in dry rooms. Outdoors only in a suitable sealed enclosure, with strips of a suitable IP rating.

IP20 means no protection against water. Use an enclosure of at least IP65, consider condensation and observe the temperature range (4336-211 and 4336-116-RF: −20 to +45 °C; 4321-WL4: −10 to +40 °C).

Have outdoor installations carried out by a qualified electrician and follow the applicable standards.

Metal enclosures attenuate Wi-Fi heavily; choose a LAN controller or a plastic enclosure.

Work on 230 V mains only by a qualified electrician. You can wire the low-voltage side (5–24 V) yourself, but high currents can heat cables, so use suitable cables and fuses.

Choose cable cross-section by current, one fuse per output, mount strips on heat-dissipating aluminium profiles. Controllers with relays (4336-616, 4336-116-RF) disconnect the output when off.

Commercial installations must be inspected regularly (in Germany e.g. under DGUV regulation 3). Have planning, installation and testing done by specialists.

Note from the WLED project: people with photosensitive epilepsy should avoid strobe, lightning and noise effects and high effect speeds. The current limiter is not a protective device.

WLED works only on your home network, without a cloud. Change the hotspot password and don't expose the controller directly to the internet.

Change the AP password, set a settings PIN, protect updates with a password. For access on the go use a VPN instead of port forwarding.

Put IoT devices in their own network segment (VLAN) with firewall rules. No port forwarding; remote access via VPN only.

The web UI uses unencrypted HTTP on the LAN. External access only via VPN or a reverse proxy with authentication and TLS.

Yes, for example for counters, shop windows and shelves with different scenes for day and evening.

Segments for several zones, schedules for automatic scenes, a remote for staff, sync for several controllers.

Our recommendation for continuous operation: wired LAN, relay and fuse per channel, documented configuration with backup, operation via remote instead of app. We help with selection and setup.

Pixel mapping for logos and shapes, control from a lighting desk via DDP/Art-Net, integration with building services via MQTT or JSON API.

Yes. Basic support helps with connection, setup and first effects and explains operation, via remote maintenance, phone, email, WhatsApp or video call. It typically takes 30 and at most 60 minutes.

For larger projects there is 2nd-level support and expert/priority support. Billing is one-off per project, no subscription.

Pre-sales advice: phone +49 5132 8305530 (Mon–Fri 9 am–4 pm CET). Support packages are billed in advance; no recurring fees.

Happy to go deep: pinouts, builds, networking and protocols. Please send firmware version, cfg.json and a description of your setup.

Yes. LED-Emotion provides CE and RoHS documentation, datasheets, safety and installation notes for the GLEDOPTO controllers.

All documents are collected on the GLEDOPTO product documents page.

Importer is LED-Emotion GmbH, Lehrte, Germany (WEEE reg. no. DE31852878). Conformity documents are available for tenders and acceptance.

Radio data e.g. 4336-611: 2402–2480 MHz, max. 16 dBm (according to the product page).

Yes. For special effects, trade fairs or industry, LED-Emotion also develops and programs custom controls.

Examples according to LED-Emotion: simulations for fairs and exhibitions, 1D, 2D and 3D effects, strips cut to length with factory-fitted cables.

Industrial applications with PLC integration are implemented too. Enquiries via advice line: +49 5132 8305530.

Interfaces as required: WLED API, MQTT, Art-Net/E1.31 or special protocols.